![]() If you use a passively-crossovered system, you lose this flexibility, and this flexibility is very important for reasons you see below. In that way you have way more control over which driver (driver in this sense being a woofer/tweeter/etc) is playing what, and at what level, and when. Firstly, utilizing an all-actively-crossovered system is paramount.Hopefully this helps someone in the future (here's looking you, and ) I will attempt to document how this was accomplished below, and reference the screenshots with the numbers embedded in the screenshots. There are no knobs or dials or switches whatsoever on the JL Audio Vx800/8i DSP/Amplifier device. Note that tuning is accomplished entirely by software. I have compared this depth and stage perception to a Volvo that I have that came from the factory with an extra-fancy-premium-audio-system that comes with center-channel speakers in the dashboard and also has various Dolby Pro whatever modes, and I was floored to discover that the 500E, even without the benefit of a center-channel-speaker, affords the listener a superior sense of depth and stage perception. This is very apparent when listening to Jazz, for example, Diana Krall, whom I have dryly observed in 2018 seems to be the "national anthem of the Legends of the Autobahn" events. Specifically, the perception that the singer is in front of you on the hood somewhere, and that the backup band surrounds you from left rearview mirror to right rearview mirror is incredible. With all that said, tuning the system in the car has made a huge huge huge difference. When I listen to music at home, I just play the music through my iPhone to some ceiling speakers. I do not own have a home stereo system with all kinds of fancy gear, and I have always held the opinion that I have relatively wooden ear drums, and that many hi-fi hobbyists like to geek out over the equipment more than the music. Let me first preface this by saying that I am not a hi-fi hobbyist at all. Now that I've had this stereo installed for about a month, I have now had the opportunity to tune it for optimum sound quality. I leveraged a lot off and 's experience and notes previously, so I am adding now to the tribal knowledge. I have attached my drawings, notes, pictures, and setup for anyone in the future who wishes to duplicate / leverage off my experience. Net result is that the stereo now sounds wonderful!!! And it looks as OE as possible, down to the "CD Changer Cover" For my own tastes, a subwoofer is "too far away from OE condition". Rear fill is L-R / R-L, bandpasses from 200Hz - 7000Hz, and delayed by 20 milliseconds.JL Audio VXi800 amplifier - 8x75w 4ohms, 8x100W 2 ohms.these are wired in parallel so each door board is a 2 ohm load to the amplifier.1 Focal 6.5" woofer in each door (PS165F3).1 Focal 6.5" mid bass in each door (PS165FX).Jehnert Door boards - in cream beige color.4 1/2" scanspeak midranges in the dashboard, hidden under the dash grille.Focal TNF tweeter in the dashboard, hidden under the dash grille.Kept the rear OE speakers - no reason to change them.Kept the functionality of the stock fader wheel.Mercedes MX3192 signal converter - used in R129 cars - used to convert native Sony protocol in BE1432 system to Alpine protocol - had to use this to use the Yatour CD Changer Emulator (to get bluetooth). ![]() Bluetooth streaming - via Yatour CD Changer Emulator (emulates Alpine changer) and BT module.The previous owner had put Rainbows in the dashboard - while the Rainbows in and of themselves were an improvement over OE, I find that the current system makes the Rainbows sound like Rainturds. I enjoy playing around with wiring / simple electronic work and I find that the result is fantastic sounding. I'm kind of anal about installation details - things like wire routing, connector terminations, solid mounting, screw hardware used, etc. I considered that non-negotiable - the obtuse nature of the controls is part of the character and charm of the car. With a professional's help, I designed and installed a stereo system in the 500E - one that looks as OE as possible, one that required no cutting of anything, and one that, importantly, uses the original Becker BE1432. I will consolidate everything into one "summary post here." OK, I have several threads in various forums (mostly the ICE ones) investigating wiring diagrams, Jehenerts, etc etc.
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